Jaycar Independent Electronic Boost Controller Kit

I installed the unit out of the way, bolted to the rear of the glove box, where I can still easily plug in the hand controller, yet be out the way once it is tuned. I ran the power connections from the back of the radio (switched power). I connected the injector input directly to the ECU connector pin 101 (White/Black). I cut the connection for the stock solenoid also at the ECU - pin 111 (Orange/Black), though being the cautious person I am, I put a bullet connector on the original wire as well as the output of the IEBC, so that (if necessary) I can easily go back to stock configuration. Beware, the ECU connections are NOT numbered sequentially (which initially caused me a little confusion). Pin 101 is on the right in the topmost position!

Original hose arrangement

As I mentioned before, one of the reasons that this EBC works so well is that it directly controls the boost going to the wastegate (rather than bleeding off pressure). Of course, this means that the hoses need to be modified to suit this arrangement. Most of the existing hose can be re-used, though beware of restrictors in the hose. I replaced most of my hoses with new, as they were old and several had restrictors in them. I had a spare T-piece which I used to create the necessary bleed. This was created by filling the base of the T with solder, then drilling a 2mm hole in it. I connected the bleed back into the intake, similar to the stock arrangement, so that no connection remains open to the atmosphere.

New hose arrangement

As the IEBC needs to be tuned under load, it is a matter of either taking the car to a Dyno tuner and getting it adjusted there (the preferred method), or alternatively, finding a long straight hill somewhere (preferably quiet) to allow you to load up the engine under acceleration without the speed getting too high.

There are 2 complete maps, each with 64 load points. Each point holds the duty cycle (0% - 100%) of the solenoid at that load level. A duty cycle of 0% means the solenoid is completely closed, allowing no pressure to reach the wastegate servo, keeping the wastegate closed. At 100% the solenoid is fully open, meaning the wastegate is fully open. Ideally, you need to keep the solenoid fully closed until you reach the boost level required, then open the solenoid just enough to maintain that level. In practice, you need to adjust the map to smoothly transition the solenoid from fully closed to the required opening over several load points.

After a bit of a false start trying to figure out the ECU connections, the installation was relatively straight forward (or would have been, if it wasn't for the fact that I managed to lock my only set of keys in the car during installation!). The configuration of the unit is a little fiddly, but once completed, it is extremely effective. Definitely recommended.

If you'd like more information regarding the operation of the IEBC, see the following articles on the Autospeed site:

• The Independent Electronic Boost Control, Part 1
• The Independent Electronic Boost Control, Part 2